Where it happens: Kawasaki and Kanayama Shrine
Ever wondered why Kawasaki keeps popping up in travel photos of strange Japanese festivals? Kanamara Matsuri takes place at Kanayama Shrine, located in Kawasaki city, Kanagawa Prefecture. Historically, the main events happen on the first Sunday of April each year.
Fun fact: Kawasaki sits between Tokyo and Yokohama, which helps explain why the festival draws both local worshippers and tourists from overseas. This also links the shrine to local craft and merchant communities, since Kanayama Shrine was visited by blacksmiths and metalworkers in the Edo and Meiji periods.
Origins: fertility, Shinto and the iron phallus
Question: where did the whole phallus motif come from? To be fair, the festival blends Shinto beliefs about fertility with folk tales about protecting marriages and childbirth. The central symbol, the iron phallus, represents protection and fertility in a Shinto context.
What most people don't know is that the shrine historically offered prayers for safe childbirth, protection from sexually transmitted infections, and prosperous families. Over time, these practical concerns became ritualised into the bold imagery you see today. Pro tip: if you're studying Japanese, note the word matsuri (祭り, matsuri); it appears in many festival names and helps you spot cultural events on calendars.
What happens during Kanamara Matsuri
Unlike what we're used to at quieter shrines, Kanamara Matsuri is loud, colourful, and full of novelty goods. Street stalls sell candy shaped like phalluses, hand towels, and small omamori (お守り, omamori) charms for fertility and health.
The three phallus mikoshi
Trust me on this one: the parade often features three portable shrines called mikoshi (神輿, mikoshi), each with a phallic motif. For example, there's usually an iron or metal phallus mikoshi that looks industrial, a wooden one that feels more traditional, and a giant pink one that's playful and modern. Parade routes change slightly each year, but in recent festivals, these three mikoshi are carried through the streets around Kanayama Shrine and sometimes positioned in a triangular formation during ceremonies.
Before I forget, the procession is energetic and can last a couple of hours, with locals carrying the mikoshi on their shoulders while drums and chants set the pace. That creates a great listening exercise if you're practising Japanese; you'll hear festival chants and short celebratory phrases shouted repeatedly.
Why it's a global cult hit
Fact: international media coverage and vivid photos make Kanamara Matsuri an easily shareable event. People love the festival because it mixes harmless shock value with genuine religious ritual, and the photos are unforgettable.
To be fair, some Japanese visitors treat the celebration as a lighthearted community festival rather than a tourist spectacle, and the shrine still receives sincere prayers. My tip: if you're learning Japanese, bring a small notebook. Asking simple questions to stall vendors or volunteers, like the price or the meaning of an item, is a friendly way to practise conversational phrases.
But let's stick with attendance and purpose for now. In recent years, Kanamara Matsuri attracts thousands of visitors, including many foreigners. Organisers also use the festival to raise funds for HIV and STI awareness programs, and donations from souvenir sales often support local health initiatives, which gives the event a charitable angle beyond the novelty.
Practical tips for visitors
Direct address: if you're going, arrive early to avoid crowds and to photograph the shrine before the main parade. Insider tip: weekdays nearby are much calmer for shrine visits, and the festival stalls will sometimes run out of popular novelty items by late afternoon.
Personally, I especially like the balance between fun and tradition; seeing families, shrine staff, and tourists all enjoy the same event feels very Japanese in a communal way. My verdict is that it's worth a trip if you're curious about Shinto festivals and want to see a side of Japan that's brave, colourful, and unabashedly joyful.
Wait, there's more. If you want to prepare linguistically, try memorising mikoshi (神輿, mikoshi), matsuri (祭り, matsuri), and omamori (お守り, omamori). They show up at many other shrine festivals across Japan.
Frequently Asked Questions
When is Kanamara Matsuri held?
It usually takes place on the first Sunday in April at Kanayama Shrine in Kawasaki.
Is the festival only about sexual humour?
No, many people attend for sincere Shinto prayers for fertility, safe childbirth, and health, alongside the playful elements.
Can foreigners attend and take photos?
Yes, foreigners are welcome, but be respectful during prayers and ceremonies. Avoid getting in the way of shrine staff or procession routes.
