Why Kusatsu Onsen Ski Resort isn't just for skiers
Kusatsu Onsen Ski Resort sits above the town of Kusatsu in Gunma Prefecture, an easy 3-hour bus or train-and-bus trip from Tokyo's Shinjuku in good conditions. Fun fact: many resorts in Japan operate their ropeways and lifts through spring to autumn, and Kusatsu is no exception.
Unlike what we're used to in winter, the slopes become walking paths and flower meadows. For example, gondolas and chairlifts often serve as access points to hiking trails that lead to ridge views and alpine flora. But let's stick with the core idea for now; the mountain is repurposed rather than closed.
What the resort facilities offer in green season
Pro tip: check individual lift schedules before you go, because operating days differ between May and October. Many resorts list precise lift hours and ticket types on their official sites, and Kusatsu's ski-area operators will post seasonal info online. No joke: a summer chairlift ride can beat a crowded winter gondola for quiet mountain photos.
Onsen town life when the snow melts
Know that feeling when a place reveals a softer side? Kusatsu's steaming heart is Yubatake, the hot-water field at the centre of town, and it's active year-round. Visitors stroll around the wooden walkways as steam rises, and you can see water flowing from the source, cooled and treated at the Yubatake pool before it goes to public baths.
To be fair, the onsen experience changes subtly in green season, with more outdoor bathing options opening up. Sainokawara Park, with its large open-air rotenburo and stone baths, is especially pleasant when surrounding trees are green. My tip: arrive early in the morning to enjoy solitude and the contrast between cool mountain air and hot water.
Cultural moments: yumomi and ritual
Here's the kicker: Kusatsu still performs the traditional Yumomi water-cooling demonstration through summer. Locals show how they cool the sulfur-rich water with large wooden paddles, and tourists can watch or join in. What I especially like is that these performances give context to bathing etiquette and explain why locals value high-temperature springs.
Green season activities: hiking, cycling and more
Question: what do you actually do when there’s no snow? Answer: plenty. The green season opens hiking routes on and around Mount Kusatsu-Shirane, though some crater areas like the Yugama volcanic lake may be restricted depending on activity alerts. Check volcanic condition notices from Gunma Prefecture before attempting crater trails.
Basically, expect mountain trails of varying difficulty, guided nature walks, and seasonal flower displays in July and August. Mountain-biking and trail-running events sometimes use the resort's access roads and lower slopes, and local guesthouses advertise guided options. On a related note, local bus schedules run more frequently in summer to ferry hikers to trailheads.
Practical resort information
Fact: Kusatsu town sits at roughly 1,200 metres elevation, so temperatures in summer are pleasantly cool, often 10-20°C lower than Tokyo. Accommodation ranges from traditional ryokan with communal baths and multi-course kaiseki dinners to simple minshuku and hotels near Yubatake. Many ryokan provide a yukata for guests to wear while strolling around town in the evening.
For example, day-use onsen (sento-style and private) are common, with entrances usually priced between ¥500 and ¥1,500 depending on service. Expect to pay more for private rotenburo reservations. From my experience, the best value comes from a late-afternoon soak followed by a short walk through town in a yukata. Sounds good, right?
Food, festivals and a slower pace
Anecdote: I once had a simple soba lunch after a morning hike, then discovered a tiny local shop selling onsen-steamed eggs. The town also hosts small summer festivals and market days where local crafts and mountain vegetables are sold. This is my absolute hidden gem, the slow, sensory rhythm that replaces adrenaline-heavy ski runs.
But let's stick with actionable advice: plan bookings early for peak summer weekends, and check lift and onsen opening calendars. To enjoy Kusatsu fully in green season, combine a mountaintop walk with at least one proper onsen visit and a warm local meal.
In pictures
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use the ski lifts in summer?
Yes, many lifts operate in green season for hikers and sightseers, but schedules vary. Check the resort's official site before you travel.
Is volcanic activity a concern?
Sometimes. Some crater trails and areas like Yugama can be closed for safety. Always check Gunma Prefecture advisories.
