Why choose counter-clockwise on the Hakone Loop?
Fun fact: many day-trippers follow the same clockwise pattern, starting at Hakone-Yumoto or Odawara and heading straight for Togendai, the ropeway, and Lake Ashi. That creates predictable bottlenecks at the Hakone Ropeway, Owakudani, and the sightseeing cruise docks during mid-morning and early afternoon. The best part? If you reverse the order and go counter-clockwise, you ride the ropeway and cruise when lines are shorter and views are clearer.
How crowds actually form
Know that feeling when a whole tour bus arrives at once? That’s what happens around 10:30 to 12:30 on busy Saturdays, Sundays, and national holidays, especially during sakura and koyo seasons. Lots of visitors use the Odakyu Romancecar from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto, then follow the standard clockwise loop, so Togendai and the Hakone Sightseeing Cruise get jammed. That reminds me: on one rainy Golden Week, I waited over an hour for the ropeway. Not fun. But that's not all.
Practical reasons to go counter-clockwise
Picture this: you arrive early at Gora, take the Hakone Tozan Railway up to Sounzan, then hop on the Hakone Ropeway toward Owakudani]] and then to Togendai. No exaggeration, early ropeway cars often have just a handful of people, not crowds. That's why going counter-clockwise reduces total queue time for the ropeway and the Lake Ashinoko cruise. On the flip side, volcanic activity at sometimes forces partial closures, so always check the ropeway status before you leave.
Transport and ticket facts
What most people don't know is that the Odakyu Hakone Freepass covers the Odakyu line from Shinjuku, the Hakone Tozan Railway, the Hakone Ropeway, local buses, and the sightseeing cruise for two or three consecutive days, depending on the pass. My tip? Buy the Freepass if you plan a loop and want flexibility. Oh, almost forgot, the Odakyu Romancecar limited express takes about 85 minutes from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto, and reserving seats helps on holiday weekends. My verdict:
Suggested counter-clockwise Hakone Loop itinerary
You can do this as a long day trip from Tokyo or take two relaxed days and stay at an onsen ryokan. Start early from Hakone-Yumoto or Odawara and head to Gora by 09:00. Transfer to Sounzan and board the ropeway heading toward toward Moto-Hakone or Hakone-machi, where you can visit Hakone Shrine and the cedar-lined approach. The best part? You’ll often board the cruise with minimal wait, while clockwise travellers queue up later.
Afternoon ( Stroll and museums
On the flip side, the museum district around Gora gets busier in the late afternoon. If you return toward Gora after the cruise, hit the Pola Museum or the Hakone Open-Air Museum before dinner. What I especially like is finishing a day with an onsen soak at a ryokan. Soaking in hot water after a full loop? Classic Japan, isn't it?
Tips, warnings and learning links
Direct advice, check the Hakone Ropeway live status and volcanic gas alerts before you leave, because sections near Owakudani) can close unexpectedly. The Hakone Sightseeing Cruise runs multiple ferries between Togendai and Hakone-machi; schedules tighten during peak season. The best part? Going counter-clockwise usually means shorter waits for both the ropeway and cruise, saving you one to two hours on a busy day.
My tip: use the Odakyu Hakone Freepass for flexible transfers and discounts, reserve Romancecar seats when possible, and bring a small umbrella in spring and autumn. This is my absolute hidden gem!
In pictures
Frequently Asked Questions
Will counter-clockwise always be faster?
No, not always. It helps on busy days and in the mornings, but check the ropeway and cruise status first.
Is the Hakone Freepass worth it?
Yes, for most tourists doing the loop, because it covers trains, buses, the ropeway, and the cruise for 2 or 3 days.
